Live coding can be a tempting way to fill up time when you're speaking on stage. But it is very well done, live coding is one of the most painful things you can put your audience through. Doing live coding well probably takes more preparation and practice than writing your slides.
However, if you must code live, here are some tips to make things a little smoother:
- Invest time practicing with your workflow. Go through your talk in presenter mode, and walk through each step of building your code.
- Don't make the audience watch you type. Have all your working demos prepared in something like saved local files, an array of pastes or git commits. You can try pre-loaded browser tabs, but remember how unreliable conference wifi can be.
- Provide links to your code so that the audience can crack open your demos right on their machines.
- Try playing music to cover up some of the tedious parts. But do be aware that if the conference will post a video on Youtube, Youtube may block the video to some locations if there's a copyright claim on that song.
I used to be a member at a local maker space (it's since closed) where they had certification classes for their 3D printers. Here are the notes I took during that class, and while working with the printer a half dozen times or so. The shop had MakerBot Replicator2s, and so your mileage may vary for other 3D printers.
The MakerBot Replicator2 uses fused filament or PLA type material. A "voxel" is a 3D pixel; .04mm for this machine. It will overcome a 45° overhang of empty space. The base material is food-safe, but printed things can't be food-safe because they're so porous that they can't reliably be cleaned. You can paint or finish printed things.
From the Repbot's menu, choose
- Pull out the .09 fin from the level gauge.
- Slide the gauge between the Repbot's nozzle and the build plate. Adjust the plate up or down using the screws underneath the plate (directly below the nozzle) until the level slides between nozzle and plate with just a wee bit of friction. The screws release tension on the page; less tension means the plate moves up.
- Push Repbot's
M button to advance to the next point. Repeat above 2 more times.
It's OK to just set the first 3 points, and then skip the rest of the set-up.
Makerware on the host computer can import .stl or .obj file formats. You can also use an SD card directly in the Repbot.
- Choose File > Make it
- Choose Low, Standard or High. (Higher resolution is slower.)
- Check or uncheck Rafts (physical "helper" structures that help the printer overcome physical overhangs) and Supports (scaffolding for negative space. These scaffolds are meant to be removed from the item after it's printed.
- Check Preview before printing. The preview will show you how long the print will take.
- Make It!
- In Quality, set the Infill and Number of Shells.
- Edit > Layout All Ctrl L
- File > Add
To customize the infill pattern for your print: http://www.makerbot.com/support/makerware/documentation/slicer/ Try catfill!
Export: gcode, slices only. In Makerware, File > Make from File. Or just bring it into Makerware.
- Pause Repbot with Left on its menu.
- Don't close the host laptop when printing; it can freeze Repbot.
- For finishing, try Bondo - a high bond sandable primer.
- Think about how the piece will be built in layers from the bottom up. Will the printer have an easier time by changing or rotating the shape?
Other related software: